Product Development / Sampling



Sampling is a multi-stage process of product development, whereby we assist the client in identifying the most efficient means of production, while retaining the essential stylistic integrity and maximizing the functional value of the garment/ product.

Our sampling process starts with the creation of a pattern by our pattern drafter Viviana. The pattern can be based on a block, a sketch, a photo, a garment or a description. After the pattern has been drawn and cut out, a toile is created (garment sewn up in a cheaper fabric minus trims) in order to verify the fit and shape are correct.

When the customer is happy with the toile then it’s time to create the first sample in its final fabric, complete with trim.

The creation of a production sample follows on from the first sample and provides reference values for the garment’s acceptable production tolerances.

Our Process:      Pattern Drafting > Toileing > First Sample > Grading > Production

Some products/ garments are relatively straightforward and this process might only take one or two iterations. Other products take more time, especially if they are innovative or containing many panels of fabric. Some recent examples why a second sample was undertaken include:Studio Shoot featuring Eimear McVeigh, Hair and Makeup by Lisa Smyth. Clothes designed by Claire Doyle and Emma Manley.

  • ‘changing stitching in order to bring down machining time thereby reducing cost of production and enabling a product to hit its preferred pricepoint in the market’
  • ‘deciding that fabric chosen was weaker than anticipated in key areas of the garment, and require support thru lining/ fusing etc’
  • ‘observing the un-natural position of the hands when the fit model tries to utilize inside pockets’
  • ‘deciding that garment does not fall or move the way in was anticipated leading to a modification with design’.

The product development process is one where value is added to the product through rounds of testing and through the incorporation of feedback from stakeholders and those from the target market/ retailers/ end users of the product.


Have an idea for a garment or textile product?


An Outline of our Sampling Procedures:

  1. Contact us to schedule an appointment.
  2. Gather info as per this checklist: pictures/ sketches of front and back, highlighting details where appropriate,  materials to be used, trims etc
  3. Arrange consultation by phoning 01 485 3961 or emailing   info [at] fashionhothouse [dot] com (opening hours are 8am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday). Consultations last 40 minutes and cost 50e, any time over this period is charged at 5e every five minute block.
  4. During this consultation the job will be discussed, details recorded and then a quote provided via email in the following days. When a 50% deposit is paid we schedule the work, and you will be given a return date (within 7-14 days) to allow you to review the toile/ or toiles up to maximum of 5 garments per sampling round.
  5. During this review with the Production Manager or Pattern Drafter you will identify areas in design and construction that need attention and decide upon the appropriate solutions.
  6. The FHH will proceed with the adjustments decided upon, and you will be given a return date (within 7-14 days) to review progress.
  7. When you return, the sample is signed off and the remaining 50% is paid.
  8. If patterns are required in different sizes, then pattern grading is the next step and a quote for this can then be provided.
  9. If a production quote is required this can  be provided after sampling is completed, (production quotes are plus/ minus 15% when only a first sample is produced.

Get in touch via our ‘contact page‘ to schedule a consultation.