Dublin based designer Marcelo Rodrigues’s Gothic inspired collection Infection Plumis truly articulates the creative gift that has shaped his life. Born in Brazil, Rodrigues spent most of his education and professional life exploring the creative arts.
Having worked in both the small screen and as a professional photographer, Rodrigues is a multi-talented artist with a love of the dramatic. Remaining true to both his vision and talent, Rodrigues shot his own collection, allowing for a purity and intensity to exist between model and garment.
The collection itself can be placed within the context of a movement built on a renewed appreciation for the Gothic aesthetic. Furthered by a Victorian/Elizabethan influence, designers as renowned as Givenchy, Sarah Burton and Vivienne Westwood have all approached the subject matter from sharply contrasting perspectives. ‘Sexy’ and chic Infection Plumis perfectly blends the bare and dark nature of the Gothic with the decadent romance of the Victorian era. In doing so, Rodrigues has created an androgynous collection for modern and fashionable men that, although containing wearable elements, verges on the avant-garde.
The Autumn/Winter collection is defined by the contrasting use of feminine lines, raw edges and crochet. Providing movement and texture to the collection’s monochrome effect, the crochet was executed using the same fabric as the garments themselves. This not only allows for a dramatic dimension to be added to Infection Plumis, but also maintains the collection’s clean and simple lines.
When discussing his approach to menswear, Rodrigues believes ‘menswear can have bold, dramatic and artistic showpieces, and are not just limited to suits’. This is certainly the case for Infection Plumis’s crocheted gasmask. One of the collection’s centrepieces, the gasmask adds an Antarctic, post-apocalyptic edge to the Gothic romanticism that dominates the collection. The piece extends almost to the floor, allowing the eye to start at the top of the head and follow the line down, thus making one appreciate the outfit as a whole.
Infection Plumis is a creative and audacious collection that brings together two widely differing influences, the Gothic and Victorian, into a beautiful, artistic synergy. Indeed, the collection was transgressive from its inception, with Dublin Institute of Design initially expressing a reluctance to allow Rodrigues to create a menswear collection, as they had never done one before. In its inspiring completion, Infection Plumis shows Rodrigues to not only be an artist who is not afraid to pursue his own path, but also establishes him as one of Ireland’s designers to watch.
Marcelo Rodrigues can be contact at marcelopmrodrigues [at] gmail [dot] com
The Fashion Hothouse is Ireland’s leading garment production company. Working with professional designers, students, film and costume companies, our services include garment development, grading, sampling, drafting and production.
All photos from Marcelo Rodrigues’s “Infection Plumis”, Courtesy: Marcelo Rodrigues.